Rock Steady Retrievers   Author: David Goodison   Date: June 08-2009   Steadiness can be defined as: that illusive ability of retrievers to sit and mark game down in the field or, the ability of retrievers to wait for their handlers to send them on a retrieve. I use the word illusive, because so many retrievers are not steady to shot. In the world of retrievers, control is the name of the game. A retriever that is not under total control is of no value in the field; in fact, a retriever that cannot be controlled may be a liability in the field.  The subject of steadiness is near and dear to my heart for a number of reasons. But before we discuss the reasons, and methods for training a rock steady retriever, let’s discuss the level of steadiness available to the average hunter. How steady can you expect your retriever to be? The simple answer is that your retriever should be steady in the field or trial under all conditions. In the field, your retriever should watch as birds fall, and never break or attempt to retrieve unless you command him to do so. When training with your training partners, your dog should sit patiently and watch as your training partners run their dogs on marks and blinds; and wait his turn. Your dog should never break for a flapping injured duck ten feet away, nor should you ever have to keep your dog in a kennel while waiting your turn during a training session with fellow trainers. This level of steadiness is attainable if you follow the principles explained in this article. I have achieved this, and maintained it, although I must admitt it was with a European bred dog. My dogs sit outside our local coffee shop and wait for up to one hour. It should also be noted that European bred retrievers are naturally steadier than North American retrievers on average; this is not an absolute statement, but generally holds true. I am currently working with a very “hot” north American bred retriever; and believe me, it will be a challenge making him truly steady.   While competing in retriever trials and tests on both sides of the Atlantic, I have noticed stark differences in the behaviors desired in retrievers. A little history may frame this discussion more clearly. During my early years of retriever training in North America, I was infected with the desire to have a high drive, aggressive and lightning fast dog at heel, or wherever else he decided to be. My first retriever came from show breeding, and at the age of ten months, I found her a new home and quickly purchased the hottest field bred pup I could afford. This new puppy exceeded all my expectations, and more. He was a little too hot, but he marked and lined beautifully. My first field trial ended in disappointment after he broke immediately as the bird was in mid air. He marked well, stepping on the bird with no hunting or seeking the birds’ location and made the retrieve in record time; it’s a pity the competition was not a time trial. It should be noted that this was a derby / junior trial, and that many other trailers had the same difficulty steadying their hot animals. The next weekend I again attended another trial, where Sam, for that was his name, continued his breaking behavior. I am sure that my experience is not unique, and that other hunters have experienced the same problems. A number of years later, I had to relocate back to Ireland where I quickly purchased some retrievers and began hunting. While training my retrievers, I used typical North American training techniques, and always used similar set-ups to what I had been accustomed to. After locating some retriever enthusiasts, I began trialing my dog and was rudely awakened at what happened next. The first retriever test that I entered was located on beautiful grounds of rolling hills, mature deciduous forests and lush meadows. Unlike what I was used to, my young dog was expected to be steady on line and honor at least two other dogs. The test standard was that three competitors walk to line together with their dogs at heel, have their dogs sit and watch as the other dogs made their retrieves. My retriever was doing great; in fact she was leading the competition with the most points, until the final retrieve that is. That was when we were disqualified because she made the slightest whimper of excitement. The judge promptly tapped my shoulder, and asked me to leash my dog and leave the competition field. The next season, my dog and I attended the biggest test of the year at the National Fair. One of the tests was for the final seven dogs to be steady while approximately fifty birds were shot about thirty yards away while all seven dogs sat patiently on line. We placed second that day, and achieved a placement on the Irish National team for two consecutive years. This would not have been possible without uncompromising steadiness. The two stories of retriever trials on each side of the Atlantic demonstrate differences in behaviors, expectations, standards and philosophy. It is fair to say that in some aspects of retriever training, Europe and America are oceans apart. I must be clear at this point that I am not about to say one system is better than the other. In fact, I am an advocate of both, in the right balance. I cannot choose one system over the other and continue to love the American lining retriever, with the steadiness of the European retriever. Before too many people respond with cries of anguish, I recognize that there are steady retrievers in North America, while there are great lining dogs in Europe. This forum is not meant to disparage either side of the Atlantic, it is meant to help hunters develop the easily attainable rarity of a rock steady retriever.   What is needed to train steadiness? It may sound simplistic to ask, “What is needed to train steadiness,” and the answer may surprise many hunters. Let’s first look at what we are training for, and what does the dog need. The steady retriever must display control and patience. If a dog is under total control, he can overcome his lack of patience; if he has too much patience it is most likely because he is a poor retriever candidate. Trainers need control and patience to train for control and patience. Maintaining steadiness is not about having access to great training grounds; it is about you displaying consistency, control and patience. You cannot teach patience in a hurry, it does not work that way. In order to train consistency, control and patience, the trainer must exhibit these traits. While training my first retrievers, my focus was on sending my dog for long complex marks, negotiating difficult blinds, and seeing how aggressively he would enter water. It was a joy for me to see my hot retriever stand on marks, handle like a dream and let nothing get in the way of his retrieve. When trialing expectations changed for me, I had to re-evaluate how I trained steadiness. I did not have to give up my love for speed, responsiveness and determination; in fact, to my surprise, steadiness seemed to improve these traits.   What follows is a list of six principles that will guide your training of the rock steady retriever. Following these principles will take some getting used to in the beginning, both for you and your dog. However, the rewards are there for the taking. When you achieve the prescribed level of steadiness you will have greater enjoyment in all aspects of dog training, hunting and general dog ownership.   All principles below need to be taken in the context of training for steadiness.   Principle #1: Do not let your dog retrieve every bird or dummy thrown or shot, even while hunting. Principle #2: Spend time in the field with your dog as he sits for increasingly longer periods of time. Principle #3: Do not call your dog to you from the sit position while training for steadiness. Principle #4: Only permit your dog to run free on command, never let him break “sit” or “heel.” Principle #5: Keep your expectations high. Principle #6: Maintain steadiness by incorporating principles permanently into training.     Principle #1: Do not let your dog retrieve every bird or dummy thrown or shot, even while hunting. This principal is especially important. During the early days of my retriever training, I would let my dogs retrieve everything thrown. My thinking was that steadiness and retrieving were separate exercises, and could therefore be treated and trained for separately. Training retrievers is like anything else, if you want to be excellent, you must view the retriever, trainer, function and environment as a system. Almost everything is connected and reliant on some other part of the system. While training your retriever, have the gunner throw some dummies or birds every training session and walk out there and get them yourself; you may want to make sure the retrieves are close by so you don’t have to walk too far. This is a good exercise to perform every training session. While hunting, take the opportunity to pick up birds that have fallen on land, or close by your blind. You do not have to do this every time you take your dog hunting, but make sure to do it at least the first few hunting trips; this exercise teaches the dog that he does not own every retrieve. An excellent way to broaden this exercise is to hunt with two retrievers and alternate which retrieve each dog gets to make.   Principle #2: Spend time in the field with your dog as he sits for increasingly longer periods of time. This can begin when the dog is quite young. Just this weekend I had my ten month old male, Cal, sit for about ten minutes in a local orchard. I began a couple of weeks ago having him sit by my side, then I would walk away from him and leave him sit. Now I hide behind trees and ditches so he cannot see me, but I always make sure that I can see him, especially while introducing him to this training. Something to keep in mind to make this lesson easier on your dog is to have him sit in the same location every day so he becomes familiar with the exercise quickly. It is important, while training this principle to always employ the use of principle #3. Make sure to sit your dog, walk away, then walk back to your dog, stand beside him and heel him from the sit position. Principal #4 must be remembered too. Make sure to mark the ground by placing a marker such as a twig or grove in the ground. This will let you know if the dog has been creeping. If the dog breaks or creeps make your way back to the dog, and return him to the exact spot where you initially had him sit, place him there and tell him sit. Then continue training, but reduce the distance you move, or time you leave the dog in the sit position.    Principle #3: Do not call your dog to you from the sit position while training for steadiness, it is okay to do this for very young dogs to help improve their return speed, but not later because it degrades steadiness. This is a difficult lesson to implement, at least for me it was. Have your dog sit, then you must walk away from your sitting dog, then return to your dog and stand beside him. Heel your dog from the sit position. He will quickly learn that you will come back for him. Many dogs will learn this and lie down and await your return. You too will get used to this as a trainer. As you see the steadiness of your dog improve, it will motivate you more to be precise with this principle. One word of caution, do not expect too much from your dog too early. In the beginning just have your dog sit at your side in the heel position for a few minutes. After a day or two have him sit and you walk twenty yards, while facing the dog. Keep communicating with the dog telling him to “sit.” (Do not use the “stay” command; it is useless and communicates no valuable information. Sit means sit until released). Return to the dog and stand beside him for a minute or two. Extend the distance and time for your dog each day, eventually he will sit for half an hour while you stay out of sight. When a dog is advanced with this lesson I will often take dummies or birds with me. After I walk away about one hundred years I will throw the dummies and shoot the gun, while still insisting on steadiness. I will then return to the dog and heel him to another location and pick up the dummies myself. This lesson will yield benefits for you and your dog. After this lesson is firmly established, you will never again need to tie your dog to keep him from breaking.   Principle #4: Only permit your dog to run loose on command. Never let your dog break from the heel position or the sit position without releasing him. When your dog is at heel make sure to stop, have the dog sit, then release him to explore and play. If your dog breaks the sit command, return him to the sit location, and then release him with a release command. Your dog should never get the idea that he can decide when to roam. The release command can be anything the trainer chooses, I tell my dogs “hi-on.” This year I ran my first seasoned hunt test with “Cal,” he had never been trained for a “walk up” but because of his early training he did not break the heel position.   Principle #5: Keep your expectations high. This principle works for all aspects of training. If you let the dog break and do not reinforce the command, he will begin to take ever increasing liberties. Principle #6: Maintain steadiness by incorporating principles permanently into training. This can be easily done. While training, throw a bird or dummy while your dog is sitting at heel, have him remain in the sit position while you walk out and get the bird. This is a simple exercise that will remind him that not every bird is his for the taking.   It should be noted that different dogs have varying propensities to breaking. It will be difficult to train my young dog to the same levels of steadiness that I have become used to because he is “hot.” He has been steady while duck hunting where we have shot thirty six mallards, and then the next week the attempts to break. Work with your dog, if he still breaks get some live ducks and clip their wings, tempt him with these birds and make him steady. Dummies are only so tempting to a dog and it would be a mistake to think your dog is truly steady if you have only steadied him on dummies.   Try these steadiness principles and enjoy a well mannered dog that will be a pleasure to hunt.